I love fennel in all of its guises. It is delicious when raw and crunchy, its assertively clean, green, sweet flavor awakening the palate. When braised slowly and caramelized, it becomes mellow and tender, with warm herbal tones that can elegantly accompany many foods. Roasted at high temperature, fennel’s sweetness is accentuated, yet tempered, by bits of dark char, giving it complexity and the boldness to stand up to robustly flavored meats. It also slides comfortably into the role of dessert, its anise-like licorice notes serving both as an elegant flavoring and an aid to digestion. What’s not to love?
Fennel does have its detractors, especially those with even the slightest aversion to black licorice. Although not a fan of black licorice myself, I do love many of the other plants that have similar flavor compounds, such as anise, chervil, tarragon, and basil (anethole and estragole are two of several organic compounds these plants have in common). But I believe fennel, prepared in at least one of the following methods, is sure to convert even the most recalcitrant objectors. Regardless of the camp you’re in, I hope you’ll give these cooking methods a try.
Fennel Three Ways
For lovers of the fresh flavor of fennel, especially those who love crunch (and who doesn’t love crunch?), there are a few ways to slice it. Begin by selecting beautiful bulbs of fennel—they should be relatively blemish free, firm, and heavy for their size (they are mostly water) and without wilted fronds (the green, fern-like leaves of the fennel). I have had only moderate success growing it in my garden (due in part to rabbits and squirrels) but have seen beautiful examples locally grown by friends. My go-to location for buying fennel here in KC is Trader Joes—it comes packaged two heads to a clamshell and is always of good quality, although there are no fronds attached (it has to be the best fennel value in town). To clean a head of fennel, cut the stalks away from the bulb, trim the root end, and if the outside layer is very thick or tough and gnarly looking, peel off the outside layer. You can also, with a vegetable peeler, peel just the surface of the outer layer to remove any damaged areas if the head appears young and tender. Rinse the bulb, and you are ready to cut. I have two favorite ways of cutting fennel for salads depending on how I want to use it. Number one: Lay the head down on its side and cut across the grain as thinly as possible, working from the stem end towards the base—this can be done more easily on a mandolin slicer. This is the primary way for cutting fennel for classic Italian salads like fennel with red onion (and vinaigrette) and fennel with orange or blood orange (and citrus vinaigrette). The second cutting method: With the head standing on its base, cut the bulb in half from top to bottom, then cut out the little V-shaped core at the bottom, which could be tough.Slice the fennel into thin layers like you would to dice an onion, then cut the slices into small cubes. This method is great for applications like a chopped salad (it makes a great addition to a tarragon chicken salad with diced onion, carrot, and celery in a light mayonnaise-based dressing) or in a salad with chopped finocchiona salami, olives, pine nuts, etc. Fennel, having originated in the Mediterranean, naturally goes with Mediterranean flavors like extra-virgin olive oil and countless other seasonings. If you ever run out of ideas, just do a quick internet search for inspiration.
For those who desire a more mellow rendition of fennel, try gently braising it: Clean the bulb, stand it on end, cut it in half, remove a small wedge (but not all) of the core, and cut the halves into thick-ish wedges (about 3⁄4 to one inch), leaving the layers of each wedge connected to the core so they hold together when cooking. In an ovenproof skillet over medium-high heat, add a tablespoon or two of olive oil and/or butter (both is best), then place the wedges in a single layer in the skillet. Season with salt and pepper and cook, watching that the fennel doesn’t scorch but rather achieves a lovely caramelized color. When the first side is browned, gently turn the wedges, adding a splash of oil or butter if the skillet seems a bit dry, then add a scant tablespoon of water and cover the pan. Continue cooking the fennel, lowering the heat a little. Check every few minutes to see that the fennel turns a beautiful, deep golden brown, lowering the heat if you think the fennel will burn. Test for doneness by poking the point of a knife into the thickest part of the fennel. The knife should meet only modest resistance and will be ready to serve. To take it to another level, try mixing equal parts coarse breadcrumbs (panko) and grated hard cheese, a generous splash of oil, crushed red pepper, thyme leaves and a little lemon zest. Generously sprinkle the mixture over the wedges of fennel, then place the skillet into a hot oven and cook just long enough for the breadcrumb mix to gratinee and become crunchy and toasty brown. Serve immediately. It would be lovely accompanying a nice piece of fish, a few slices of prosciutto, or just a fresh green salad.
If you like a delicately aggressive, lightly charred, yet sweet expression of fennel, try roasting at a high temperature. I like to do at least two heads at a time when cooking it this way because it loses volume when cooking, and the delicious leftovers have lots of applications. Clean the fennel as before, cut it in half, remove most of the core as for braising, then cut the fennel into ¾ to one-inch-thick wedges (if you want shorter pieces, you could cut them in half lengths). In a bowl, toss the fennel with a drizzle of olive oil, the juice of half a lemon, salt and pepper (crushed red pepper if you like it spicy). Spread the fennel in a large cast-iron skillet (or on a parchment-lined sheet pan for easy cleanup) and place the pan into a 500-degree oven and cook for about 25 minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent burning. Some charring will occur, and that is okay—good, actually. Remove the fennel from the oven. Prepared in this manner, it is a satisfying side dish or an outstanding addition to pasta sauces, salads, or as a pizza topping.
In Your Pantry: Fennel-ly Flavors
Fennel Pollen
The pollen collected from wild fennel plants all over Italy (and now California) is an incredibly flavorful expression of fennel, almost like a cross between fennel and dill (with which it can cross pollinate). It is intense and complex and very Tuscan. Once you have had a pork roast with fennel pollen as part of the seasoning, you will never forget it. Although today it is relatively simple to procure on the internet, those who love getting their hands dirty can grow their own wild fennel with seed from Seeds from Italy (distributed from Lawrence, Kansas). Try grinding sea salt, fennel pollen, and crushed red pepper to make a delicious dry rub for your next pork chop or steak. When fennel pollen is called for in a recipe and your pantry is lacking, finely ground fennel seed can be used as a pale but functional substitute.
Fennel Fronds
The fronds of fennel are the fern-like fluffy leaves growing off the stems of fennel. Though they are frequently discarded, they have many culinary uses. The tender greens make an excellent pesto and are a flavorful addition to marinades and soups. The stems and fronds of fennel can also be used as an aromatic non-stick surface for delicate items to be cooked on the grill—try lightly moistening and oiling a handful of stems and fronds, place them on the grill, top them with a piece of fish, and then cover with the grill top or an improvised lid. Allow the fennel to steam and char, which will impart a lovely herbal smoky fragrance to the fish.
Fennel and Anise Seed
Due to a confusing pedigree of names in Europe and America, fennel and anise are frequently confused, but they are distinctly different plants with many similar aromatic and culinary qualities. The seeds can be used interchangeably but those accustomed to one flavor or the other will be sure to notice the difference. Both can be ground or used whole depending on desired texture. Anise seed, which is considerably smaller than fennel seed, has a more intense black licorice bite with a pleasantly bitter aftertaste. Fennel seeds are mildly sweet and herbal in comparison. Both are said to aid digestion and are used in after dinner drinks and sweets.