There is one group of plants that anyone can grow. Even with the blackest of thumbs, without trying, without a garden—anyone can grow weeds. A sidewalk with a crack in it, a neglected pot on a balcony or porch, that’s all you need. Fortunately, many weeds are edible, and some are even delicious when you know how to use them. One of my current favorites is purslane.
Purslane (officially Portulaca oleracea), is an extremely common weed in many parts of the world. I first learned of it years ago when I was removing weeds in the garden at Lidia’s and one of the Hispanic members of the staff asked if he could have the pile of fleshy, tiny-leaved succulent-looking plants I had just pulled. When I asked what he was going to use it for, he said simply and as if speaking to a child, “comida.”
Upon further inquiry, he said he liked to quickly sauté it with garlic and a little crushed red pepper, a treatment that many vegetables respond well to. With a seemingly endless supply from my home garden, I tried and liked the slightly sour and refreshing preparation. Somehow, perhaps because it was hard to see past the fact that it was a “weed,” and it was growing in the “wrong” place, and perhaps because I almost completely eliminated it from my garden, I never really made purslane a part of my repertoire.
It wasn’t until last fall when I was in Turkey and the first round of mezze came to the table that I was reminded of this wild edible. At first I didn’t recognize it, heavily robed in yogurt, casually placed amid an assortment of tasty spreads and vegetable preparations. But speaking no Turkish and my waiter speaking almost no English, I found a photo of purslane on my phone and after showing it to the man, he enthusiastically confirmed that it was indeed in my yogurt. After observing fellow diners, it was obviously intended to be eaten with bread, but was also consumed with just about everything else on the table. One bite and I immediately thought “I have to write about this!” Used raw, the tart vegetal flavor and tender-crunchy texture of the purslane was beautifully accentuated by the tangy-creamy quality of the yogurt, the unmistakable punch of raw garlic, and just enough salt to make you go back for a second and then a third taste. It was delicious, similar to tzatziki, both new and familiar all at once, cooling and perfect for the evening heat.
Purslane and Yogurt Spread
This is a no-recipe recipe, and one that can be easily adapted to other ingredients. The most challenging part of the recipe is acquiring the large handful or two of purslane. If you don’t have purslane growing in some unwanted place in your garden or sidewalk, try looking for it at the farmers market from the end of May throughout the heat of summer. It is sometimes available at stores specializing in Middle Eastern ingredients and produce (like Shahrazad International Market on Metcalf or Pak Halal International on 87th St. Parkway—I’ve seen it in both of those stores on occasion). Freshness is paramount for the best texture and yield (plants tend to shrivel and the leaves discolor and fall off after just a few days in storage). Regardless the source, be sure and thoroughly wash the purslane as it can be quite gritty and seems to hold on to sand and dirt. Allow the purslane to dry briefly on a towel while assembling the rest of the ingredients. I like a ratio of approximately equal parts by volume of purslane and plain yogurt. For the yogurt, use a rich and thick one, like Greek-style yogurt or even labneh. Lacking those, plain yogurt can be thickened by straining it through a fine sieve or cheesecloth overnight to remove excess water. Peel, chop and smash a clove or two of garlic into a paste with about a teaspoon of sea salt, and combine it in a bowl with a very large dollop of yogurt. Pull the leaves from the stems of the purslane (if the purslane is very small and tender it can simply be coarsely chopped). Stir the purslane into the yogurt and allow it to stand for at least 30 minutes (a few hours is even better) to allow the flavors to meld and develop. If you have no purslane, you could certainly substitute shredded cucumber or shredded young zucchini, or even finely diced celery, and any number of herbs, such as parsley, dill, mint and/or cilantro (which is basically tzatziki). To replicate the acidity of the purslane, a few squeezes of lemon juice could be added. Serve the spread drizzled with extra-virgin olive oil and a grind of coarse black pepper with a good flatbread or crackers, either alone or as part of a large assortment of mezze. It also makes an excellent spread for sandwiches.
In addition to using the leaves in a yogurt-based spread, all parts of the plant are edible. Stems and leaves are welcome in salads, especially a Greek salad with tomatoes, onion, and feta. It can be added to soups, where its slightly mucilaginous quality functions like okra acting as a thickener, and the seeds can be added to baked goods or ground into a flour. If all of those uses aren’t inspiration enough, purslane has one of the highest levels of omega-3 fatty acids in vegetable plants. I hope you’ll be inspired to go do a little “weeding” of your own.
In Your Pantry
Weeds
There are many edible weeds that have earned the “weed” designation because of their invasive nature or simply because they require a great deal of effort to make them usable. For the curious and resourceful, they can be a fascinating and tasty way to make use of the bounty surrounding us. Remember, before you pick a strange plant and consume it, be certain you know what you’re eating. While many weeds are delicious, harmless, and nutritious, even more taste like nothing or are incredibly bitter and/or poisonous—bitterness is always a warning to the presence of alkaloids or other potential toxins. When in doubt, check with an expert like a county extension agent or knowledgeable herbalist. And naturally, avoid plants that have been contaminated with pesticides or other chemicals (like dandelions in a chemically manicured lawn).
Bladder Campion (Silene Vulgaris)
It may not win the title for sexiest name, but this rugged edible (also known as maidenstears, sclopit, sculpit, agriopapoula and collejas), native to Europe, has naturalized and become a wildflower in North America, especially right here in the Midwest. Young shoots and leaves, nutty and tasting of new green pea tendrils or bean sprouts, are delicious tossed in early spring salads—they emerge before almost everything in late winter, and provide fresh greens even when there is still a bit of snow on the ground. In older, more mature specimens, the leaves are stripped from the stems and either boiled or braised like other greens. In Italy, they are especially popular in risotto or a frittata. Seeds are available from growitalian.com. You’ll only need to plant it once!
Dandelion
Not for the faint of heart, this boldly bittersweet weed can be delicious early in the spring, before long days and high heat increase its level of bitterness to unpalatable levels. Look for it along the edge of the woods where it doesn’t get long hours of direct sunlight (which increases the bitterness). Chicory, which is in the same family as dandelions, can be found in grocery stores (Whole Foods is a reliable source). In the wild, look for the tiny, pale colored leaves for the mildest flavors. Dandelion greens add complexity to braised greens (especially with smoked pork), and make an excellent addition to spring salads. Try the raw greens in salads dressed with assertive and/or sweet vinaigrettes. The sunny yellow flowers can be battered and deep fried as well as turned into an interesting homemade cordial.
Stinging Nettles
Although originally from Europe, this prickly plant, a super food extraordinarily rich in antioxidants, is now found worldwide, and even thrives right here in our area. The plant has a very long history as a medicinal and food plant, but comes with a caveat—the leaves and stems of most varieties of nettles have tiny hairs that act like needles which can inject histamines upon contact with skin which cause a burning sensation in most people, so gloves and protective clothing should always be used. (If you learn this the hard way, wash the affected area and the burning sensation should pass in an hour or so.) The needling effect is eliminated by briefly cooking the nettles in boiling water. After blanching, the leaves can be chopped or puréed and used in many ways. In Europe, they are often found in spring soups, pasta doughs, and fillings, and as an all-purpose potherb (herbs/plants that go into a pot with other plants for cooking). Available at farmers markets during the early spring or along the edges of fields and forests.
Pokeweed
Also known as poke sallet, or poke salad. This North American native (Phytolacca americana) is found along the edges of forests, brush piles, or neglected farm areas. Often considered a “food of necessity,” many Southerners have a soft spot for this tricky weed. It has a subtle flavor and texture (in part due to the extended cooking process required to render it harmless!), like silken spinach. In true Southern (and Midwestern) style, it is perhaps at its best when long cooked with a noteworthy dollop of bacon grease. It pairs well with eggs and makes a delicious scramble or omelet. It can be used any way cooked greens are used, but remember all parts of the plant are toxic, especially in its mature form. Therefore, its leaves should only be consumed in early spring, just when the plant is emerging from the ground, and even then they should be boiled in several changes of water.
Â