We have long tradition of training young chefs in Kansas City, letting them cut their teeth in our restaurant scene for a few years, and then watching them head off to larger markets, or even overseas, to hone their culinary skills in a place that offers more—more restaurants, more cuisines, more job opportunities, and more people to feed. Some never return, but those who do we welcome home with open arms, ready to experience what they have learned while they were away.
Homecoming for a chef can happen for several reasons. First, to be closer to family and support systems, especially when children come along. Second, the desire to live in a place with a relatively low cost of living and a more relaxed pace, which the Midwest still offers. Finally, some chefs come home because they are eager to open their own restaurants, and that can only happen if the other two reasons are also present. Ultimately, this cycle only helps our local food scene grow broader and richer every time an influx of chefs hits the city limits.
Such is the case for married chefs and partners Josh and Kelly Bianchi, who recently moved back to Kansas City (Kelly grew up here) to open their own restaurant, Osteria Bianchi, located north of Kansas City and just 20 minutes from downtown.
One of them would have been enough, but together they bring a wealth of culinary experience that is seen, felt, and tasted at their new spot in the Northland. Kelly’s culinary career started in the kitchen at YaYa’s in Leawood and The American Restaurant before she left for New York, where she worked for the chef François Payard. She soon left the Big Apple for Las Vegas where she cooked at Le Cirque before becoming the executive chef for Wynn’s catering and special events division for the last eight years.
Josh was at Gramercy Tavern in New York before he left for Las Vegas where he worked in various prestigious kitchens, including Picasso, Wolfgang Puck, and DB Brasserie. He was also the opening chef for Vetri Cucina and Drais Nightclub in Las Vegas. For the past three years, Josh has been catering to the Las Vegas community as a private chef and resident at The Vegas Test Kitchen, an experimental culinary incubator that opened during the pandemic.
For their own restaurant, Osteria Bianchi, there seems to be clear roles, with Josh running the kitchen and the back of house, and Kelly overseeing the bar and restaurant operations at the front of the house. It’s a division that allows them to bring their unique skills and passion to the restaurant, with the flexibility they need to keep their own relationship, kids, and family a priority.
Located in a busy shopping center, Osteria Bianchi opened in the former Trago Bar & Tapas location, and the transformation from a Spanish tapas bar to a traditional Italian neighborhood restaurant with a modern American influence is truly impressive. The renovation of the space was accomplished mostly by family and the couple themselves. The result is a spacious, open-concept restaurant where the entire restaurant can be observed when you enter. Views into the bustling kitchen and a large cocktail bar at the rear fit in with the sophisticated, but not stuffy, décor that feels as if you’re dining in someone’s home. Sage-green velvet drapes add drama and color to the dining room, which quite possibly has the most effective ambient lighting I’ve seen in a restaurant in ages. Not too dark, and not too bright, it feels like you’re dining by candlelight. It all plays an important role in making a large, commercial white-box space feel warm and welcoming.
The service at Osteria Bianchi was convivial and spot-on, executed under the watchful eye of Kelly, who roams the dining room chatting with guests and clearing plates when needed. Every need was anticipated, and service was informative, but reserved. The perfect amount of being present, but not a presence, at the table.
The menu is compact, but seasonal, fresh, and exciting, with few nods to the sugo-sauced Sicilian dishes we’re used to seeing on Italian menus in Kansas City. The antipasti menu has offerings including house-baked focaccia with parmesan “salsa,” and a pretty pasta plate comprised of two artichoke- and ricotta-stuffed ravioli floating in a clear, green basil broth. A favorite was the Hamachi crudo topped with a sweet-and-sour mushroom agrodolce, truffled celery root, and generous sprinkle of fresh herbs. It was light and lively dish that sparkled in the mouth, preparing my appetite for what was to come.
Skipping the selection of pizzas that looked deliciously tempting on other tables, I selected a pasta dish from the menu. The thin and tender handmade cannelloni was stuffed with fresh ricotta and pooled in a simple brown butter and citrus sauce. I peppered bites of the rich but delicate cannelloni between tastes of the grilled hangar steak. The steak was garnished with a bright-green Italian parsley and vinegar-based chimichurri sauce and served over creamy white cannellini beans. It was the most expensive item on the dinner menu at $39. The plate was not overly composed, but instead thoughtfully arranged, cooked to order, and served at the perfect temperature. Vinegar and acid play a large role on the spring menu, and where it’s found, it works almost like a palate cleanser, keeping the rich cheese, butter, and meaty dishes in balance.
For dessert, I ordered one of everything. The olive-oil chiffon cake was crowned with a heaping dollop of mascarpone speckled with orange and lime zest. The simple, bright flavor of the cake contrasted with the salted caramel and chocolate tart, which was more like a rich, decadent candy bar. The passionfruit panna cotta and the polenta budino indulged my secret love of anything pudding-like. The cold, creamy panna cotta cone bathed in pool of bright passionfruit sauce flecked with candied citrus and red pepper, while the layered polenta budino’s sweet-corn pudding base was topped with a sublime chocolatey hazelnut mousse and fresh whipped cream pierced with two crispy almond tuiles.
When the check arrived, it came with two soft, chewy amaretto cookies that are made in-house. They went home in my pocket and were enjoyed the next day with coffee.
There’s something special happening at Osteria Bianchi, and you can see it in the faces of the neighborhood regulars. Josh and Kelly are clearly pros at treating their guests with generosity. It’s part of the ethos here, along with their heart-felt desire to run an excellent restaurant that feels like a casual neighborhood spot.
But it’s not just their guests who are treated like VIPs, it extends to their employees as well. Toward the end of the night a cook was cut from her shift as her parents were just sitting down to dinner at a small table for two. The young cook went to say goodbye to her parents before she left, and Kelly immediately moved them all to the large family-style table, so they could sit together and enjoy their meal.
Treating everyone like they matter is something that is often talked about but can be difficult to practice, especially on a busy Friday night. It’s a million intangible little things that transforms a good dining experience to a great one, or makes an employee feel like they’re valued. Osteria Bianchi has a killer combination of warmth and professionalism that makes it a true dining destination.