Skincare: What Works

Beauty magazines, social media influencers, and YouTube gurus are famous for touting the newest, latest ingredients for getting glowing, smooth, healthy skin. But what really works?

Skin Medica 1% Retinal Complex, $96, at Georgous Aesthetic Bar.

Retinoids

There’s 40 years of solid science behind the use of retinoids. These topical vitamin A derivatives, including the prescription-only retinoic acid known as tretinoin, reduce fine lines, wrinkles, and sun damage by increasing collagen production. Originally approved as a topical treatment for acne (for which it is still prescribed), users of tretinoin discovered that besides clearing their acne, it also demonstrated significant effects on signs of aging.

Over the counter retinoids, including retinyl esters, retinol, retinaldehyde (also known as retinal), aren’t as effective as tretinoin but don’t require a prescription.

In order of efficacy:
Retinyl esters are a great introduction to retinoids if you’re just beginning to use a retinoid or if your skin is especially sensitive.

Retinol is the form of retinoid you’re probably most familiar with. It’s in many popular skin treatment products.

Retinaldehyde (retinal) is the most potent over-the-counter retinoid.

Whether you’re 20 or 60, you’ll want to introduce some form of retinoid into your skin-care routine. Do a little research to find the best formula that will work for you.

Revision C+ Brightening Eye Complex, $120, at AesthetiCare Medspa.

Vitamin C

Like retinoids, topical vitamin C serums increase collagen production. It protects against sun damage and brightens skin by reducing redness, dullness, dark spots, and hyperpigmentation. This potent antioxidant combats free radicals. You’ll find several forms of vitamin C in skin-care products, but the gold standard is L-ascorbic acid. Look for a 10 to 20 percent serum, which is more effective than a cream or lotion. It’s often paired with vitamin E, hyaluronic acid, or niacinamide to reduce irritation and boost efficacy. And make sure your vitamin C serum comes in an opaque or amber-hued container and is stored in a dark, cool space. Exposure to light and heat can cause vitamin C to oxidize, making it ineffective.

ZO 10% Vitamin C Self-Activating serum, $108, at Georgous Aesthetic Bar.

Dermatologists suggest applying Vitamin C in the morning and your retinoid in the evening to avoid irritation. As always, in the morning sunscreen should be the final step in your skin-care routine.

While there are many buzzier products out there, a regular use of these proven ingredients will definitely get your glow on.

Colorscience Total Protection No-Show Mineral Sunscreen, $66, at AesthetiCare Medspa.

Suntegrity 5-in-1 Tinted Moisturizer and Sunscreen, $45, at Skin KC.